Top Ten Areas To Consider When Choosing The Right Roofing System:

1. Style
There are many styles of shingles to choose from, depending on the details of your home's design, and exterior details.
Here are some roofing materials to consider:
• Composition shingles 
• Wood shakes
• Roofing tile
• Panel types, from true standing seam to tile
• Slate
• Concrete
• Hot mopped asphalt roofing
• Metal types, including steel, aluminum, copper, zinc

2. Weight of the Product
Roofing is measured in "squares." A square represents 100 square feet of area -- generally a 10-foot-by-10-foot section. A composition shingle, for example, weighs substantially less than a concrete shingle. Installation of a heavier shingle may take longer and therefore add extra hours to labor costs.

3. Local Codes/HOA restrictions
It is advisable to check with your local building officials or homeowners association to see if they have any specific requirements, prior to making your selection or roofing material. Many communities have restrictions that require the use of only natural building materials, including the roofing. In many cases, these restrictions were created to uphold the appearance of the community and help respect and maintain property values. This corresponds with the views of real estate, design, an architectural professionals.

4. Geographic/Weather Conditions
Carefully consider your climate and weather conditions in your area. Many things can affect a roof's life span. The location of your home makes a critical difference in longevity no matter which materials are used. For example, shade from trees or humid weather can create moss problems for some roofs, while those in drier climates may suffer more wear from hail or excessive heat. Fire-prone areas may be more dangerous for homes with wood roofs, while at the same time windy conditions put constant stress on any roof.

Roofing products have changed significantly over the years. There are a wide range of choices in materials, appearances and prices. Look for materials that will help protect your home for many years.
A roof system's performance is affected by numerous weather factors. Knowing about the following will help you make informed roof system buying decisions.

a. Sun: Heat and ultraviolet rays cause roofing materials to drastically deteriorate over time. Deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west or south.

b. Rain: When water gets underneath shingles, shakes or other roofing materials, it can work its way to the roof deck and cause the roof structure to rot. Extra moisture encourages mildew and rot elsewhere in a house, including walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems.

c. Wind: High winds can lift shingles' edges (or other roofing materials) and force water and debris underneath them. Extremely high winds can cause extensive damage.

d. Snow and ice: Melting snow often refreezes at a roof's overhang where the surface is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles (or other roofing materials) and seeps into the interior. During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair or even torn off a house or building.

e. Condensation: Condensation can result from the buildup of relatively warm, moisture-laden air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay of wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying a roof structure. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved by installing larger or additional vents and will help alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.

f. Moss and algae: Moss can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows, moss holds even more moisture to a roof system's surface, causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems. Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.

g. Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture, shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof system's surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters block drainage.

h. Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system's effectiveness is complete protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure and home or building interior are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread -- nearby shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.

i. Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated roof system only gets worse with time -- it should be replaced as soon as possible.

j. Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a biannual roof inspection and gutter cleaning.

5. Product cost vs. benefit
How do you know you are getting your money's worth when buying a roof?

Understanding the Components of the Roofing System
All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components:
a. Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.
b. Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to the roof rafters to cover a house or building.
c. Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.
d. Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system's various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.
e. Drainage: a roof system's design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.
 
In either case, the costs will vary depending on the material used and the complexity of the roof shape. Not only will the materials be priced differently, but the labor costs to install different materials can vary drastically. Typically, the steeper the "pitch" or angle of your roof, the greater the repair or replacement cost because of the extra safety considerations and labor time involved. Costs will vary depending on the material used and the complexity of the roof shape. Not only will the materials be priced differently, but the labor costs to install different materials can vary drastically.

6. Durability - Weather/Environment
Testing for Resistance
Testing standards exist to measure a roofing product's relative resistance to impact, wind and fire. Roofing manufacturers are not required to subject their roofing materials to all testing standards. However, when materials are tested and receive these ratings, consumers can use this information to help them determine which roofing product is right for their home.

Impact Resistance
UL 2218 is a testing standard designed by Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) to evaluate a roofing material's potential resistance to the impact of hail.

Roofing products may have a testing label indicating a specific impact-resistance rating. Depending on how the material performed during UL 2218 testing, the product may receive a Class 1, 2, 3 or 4 impact- resistance rating. Roofing with a Class 4 rating is expected to provide the greatest impact resistance.

Wind Resistance
Windy conditions put a constant stress on your roof. The wind may lift the edges of roofing material, allowing water to penetrate. High winds can cause tearing in asphalt composition shingles. Extreme winds can even cause many roofing materials to blow off.

Products perform best when installed per the manufacturer's instructions.

If you select an asphalt product for your roof, the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturer Association (ARMA) prefers the use of nails to staples for securing shingles. In windy areas, many manufacturers and local building codes call for six nails per shingle instead of the usual four.

7. Durability - Foot traffic 
When the roof is repeatedly subjected to high pressures or harsh chemicals, the aging of the roof structure is significantly accelerated. At this point, the concrete roof tiles are more likely to shift, slip, or break and asphalt shingles are more likely to become brittle and crack. When this happens, there is a greater likelihood of tearing the roof membrane simply by walking on the roof. Click here to request our Do-It-Yourself Guide for Inspecting Your Roof before you inspect your roof.

8. Life Expectancy
In general, the products that are made of organic materials, such as wood and asphalt, have a shorter lifespan. than do inorganic materials, such as concrete and clay. Some types of roofing have a very limited serviceable life. For example, wood shakes and some types of composition shingles may last no more than 15 years. Some products, such as ones made from fiber cement, have been on the market for only a few years; so no one really knows how well they will perform over the long run. On the other hand, real clay roof tiles have been around for thousands of years, and it has been shown in certain cases that clay roofs have lasted hundreds of years.

9. Fire Safety
Depending on how a material performs during fire-resistance testing, the product may receive a Class A, B or C fire rating, or possibly no rating. Products tested may be labeled with a specific fire-resistance rating.
Fire ratings are:
• Class A: Effective against severe fire exposure
• Class B: Effective against moderate fire exposure
• Class C: Effective against light fire exposure
• Non-rated: The roofing material either was not tested or failed one of the tests.

Check local building codes before purchasing to see which standards need to be met.

10. Warranty
The five key things to look at when you examined the warranties of the product being considered or.
• the duration of the warranty coverage
• whether it is prorated or not prorated
• transferability to a future owner
• the company that stands behind the warranty
• is there fade coverage

a. Duration can turn into a numbers game with one company trying to outdo the others by increasing the number of years of coverage.
b. Beware of warranties that are prorated. Regardless of their duration, even if lifetime, you will have to pick up a portion of the cost for the replacement product. To make matters worse, some companies accelerate the proration schedule so that more of the cost is transferred more quickly. Ideally, the warranty should be non-prorated, so the coverage remains the same throughout the term of the warranty.
c. Warranties that are transferable borrow more value to you than you might think. In fact, it may result in a higher resale value for you, should you ever decide to sell your home. A potential buyer will consider your home more valuable, if they know that a major maintenance items, such as a roof, is covered by a transferable warranty.  In addition, in this age of litigation were buyer sue sellers for problems with the houses they purchase, a transferable warranty could also help avoid a costly legal battle, should your roof develop problems after you sell your home.
d. The company that stands behind the warranty is important, too. If that Company does not have the resources to weather the storm of a large quantity of field failures, which could result from a single batch of bad material, then the warranty that you have may end up being worthless.  For this reason, you should ask for some background about the manufacturers of the roofing products at your considering.  You will find that they range in size from very small, with sales of less than $10 million, to the very large, with sales in the billions of dollars.  But, you must assays questions to find out if the warranty is worth more than the paper on which is printed
e. There are some new innovations and warranties that should be noted. One of these is the advent of fade coverage.  Fading to be a major issue in the long-term appearance of your roof. A beautiful color that fades badly after a few years will leave you with a roof that is less than what you originally expected. Most pain and metal roofs are notorious for fading, as are other materials or lie on coatings for their coloration. A warranty that covers fading is a good way to guard against this problem.

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Check Warranties
Most roofing materials come with some type of warranty; read the fine print carefully. Different manufacturers carry different warranties for similar products. Here are some examples of warranties:

Pro-rated: The manufacturer pays claims based on the age of the roof. The older your roof, the less the manufacturer will pay to replace an older roof with a newer one.

First owner: Some warranties apply only to the first owner of a roof. If you plan to sell your home soon, the new owner will not be allowed to continue the warranty.

Warranty fee for flat roofs: Obtaining a warranty from the manufacturer of a roofing system for flat roofs may be cost-prohibitive. However, a local contractor may provide a two-year warranty.

Wind: Applies specifically to damage caused by wind.

Hail: Applies specifically to damage caused by hail. Hail warranties are not common.

Materials and defects: The manufacturer's warranty is typically limited to product defects that result from the manufacturing process. If your roofing contractor, for example, incorrectly installs the roof and a leak develops, the manufacturer would not be responsible for repairs. However, workmanship defects may be covered by a warranty given to the homeowner by the installer.

Workmanship: Manufacturers do not allow contractors to alter printed product warranties. The contractor may provide a workmanship warranty. The terms of this warranty would be written in the contract between the installer and the homeowner. This warranty period varies depending on the terms of the contract.

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FAQ’s

? How can a home owner recognize when a roof system has problems?
All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof system problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.

? What are my options if I decide to reroof?
You have two basic options: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of your existing roof system, or re-cover the existing roof system, involving only the installation of a new roof system. If you've already had one re-cover installed on your original roof system, check with a professional roofing contractor. In many instances, building code requirements allow no more than one roof system re-cover before a complete replacement is necessary.

? My roof leaks. Do I need to have it replaced completely?
Not necessarily. Leaks can result from flashings that have come loose or a section of the roof system being damaged. A complete roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and a result of improper installation or choice of materials or the roof system installation is inappropriate for the home or building.

? Can I do the work myself?
Most work should not be done yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace roof systems. You can damage your roof system by using improper roofing techniques and severely injure yourself by falling off or through the roof. Maintenance performed by home and building owners should be confined to inspecting roof systems during the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and cleaning gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must inspect your roof system yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof system), if possible.

? How long can I expect my roof system to last?
Most new roof systems are designed to provide useful service for about 20 years. Some roof system types, such as slate, clay tile and certain metal (e.g., copper) systems, can last longer. Actual roof system life span is determined by a number of factors, including local climatic and environmental conditions, proper building and roof system design, material quality and suitability, proper application and adequate roof maintenance. Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations manufacturers will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lives.

? What will a new roof system cost?
The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on such things as the materials selected, contractor doing the work, home or building, location of the home or building, local labor rates and time of year. To get a good idea of price for your roof system, get three or four proposals from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that price is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship. For each roofing material, there are different grades and corresponding prices. There also are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs. Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Insist on a contractor who is committed to quality work.

? How can I determine my annual roofing cost?
When considering your roofing options, the following formula may help: Total Cost (Materials and Labor) ÷ Life Expectancy of Roof System (in years) = Annual Roofing Cost

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What to do if a Hail or Wind Storm occurs at your home?

Colorado's damaging hail season is considered to be from mid-April to mid-September. Colorado's Front Range is located in the heart of "Hail Alley," which receives the highest frequency of large hail in North America and most of the world, so residents usually can count on three or four catastrophic (defined as at least $25 million in insured damage) hailstorms every year. In the last 10 years, hailstorms have caused nearly $2 billion in insured damage in Colorado. As a result, up to one-half of your homeowners insurance premium may be going toward hail and wind damage costs. If you carry comprehensive coverage on your auto policy, hail damage is covered by almost all insurance companies. Comprehensive insurance is optional, but if you live in a hail prone area, the insurance industry recommends this coverage.

If a Hailstorm Strikes:
Don't go out in the storm to try to protect your property. You could be injured.

After the hailstorm Assess the Damage
• Check trees, shrubs and plants around your house. If they are stripped of their foliage, there is a possibility that your roof is damaged. You should also check for roof damage if patio covers, screens or soft aluminum roof vents are dented.
• Check your car for dents and broken or cracked glass.

Protect your property from further damage.
• If you find signs that hail has battered your property, take immediate steps to protect it from further damage.
• Cover any broken windows and holes in your roof so that no water can enter and damage your home's interior.
• Cover any broken glass in your car to prevent damage to the interior from rain and remove glass from the car's interior to prevent cuts in upholstery and carpet.

File your claim.
• Call your agent or company as soon as you notice damage. Practically all homeowners policies cover hail damage. You car will be covered if you've purchased comprehensive coverage.
• If your agent or company requests you to do so, follow up your call with a written explanation of what happened.
• Save receipts for what you spend and submit them to your insurance company for reimbursement.

Select a repair company.
• Select a reputable roofing company such as Colorado Roofing & Exteriors to make repairs and to help negotiate on your behalf with the insurance adjuster. Get Quote
• Allow only the insurance adjuster and roofer you have selected to get up on your roof. Each time someone walks on it, more damage can occur.
• Be wary of out-of-town roofers who move into an area and set up shop following a storm. While some of these firms are reputable, some have collected money from homeowners and moved on to the next storm site without paying suppliers or leaving work unfinished. This can leave homeowners holding the bag for those additional costs. It's a good idea to select a company with established credibility and local references. Word of mouth is still your best guide.
• Be sure roofers have the appropriate insurance required by the state and your local city. If they don't, you may be held liable if one of the workers is injured or if they damage a neighbor's property.

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Glossary

• Dormer: A small structure projecting from a sloped roof, usually with a window.

• Drip edge: An L-shaped strip (usually metal) installed along roof edges to allow water run off to drip clear of the deck, eaves and siding.

• Eave: The horizontal lower edge of a sloped roof. 

• Fascia: A flat board, band or face located at a cornice's outer edge.

• Felt/underlayment: A sheet of asphalt-saturated material (often called tar paper) used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof deck.

• Fire rating: System for classifying the fire resistances of various materials. Roofing materials are rated Class A, B or C, with Class A materials having the highest resistance to fire originating outside the structure.

• Flashing: Pieces of metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any intersection or projection in a roof system, such as vent pipes, chimneys, valleys and joints at vertical walls. 

• Louvers: Slatted devices installed in a gable or soffit (the underside of eaves) to ventilate the space below a roof deck and equalize air temperature and moisture.

• Oriented strand board (OSB): Roof deck panels (4 by 8 feet) made of narrow bits of wood, installed lengthwise and crosswise in layers, and held together with a resin glue. OSB often is used as a substitute for plywood sheets.

• Penetrations: Vents, pipes, stacks, chimneys-anything that penetrates a roof deck.

• Rafters: The supporting framing to which a roof deck is attached.

• Rake: The inclined edge of a roof over a wall. 

• Ridge: The top edge of two intersecting sloping roof surfaces.

• Sheathing: The boards or sheet materials that are fastened to rafters to cover a house or building.

• Slope: Measured by rise in inches for each 12 inches of horizontal run: A roof with a 4-in-12 slope rises 4 inches for every foot of horizontal distance. 

• Square: The common measurement for roof area. One square is 100 square feet (10 by 10 feet).

• Truss: Engineered components that supplement rafters in many newer homes and buildings. Trusses are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered.

• Valley: The angle formed at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces. 

• Vapor retarder: A material designed to restrict the passage of water vapor through a roof system or wall.
 
A-D
 
Aggregate: A surfacing or ballast for a roof system. Aggregate can be rock, stone, crushed stone or slag, water-worn gravel, crushed lava rock or marble chips.
 
Algae discoloration: A type of roof discoloration caused by algae. Commonly called fungus growth.
 
Alligatoring: The cracking of the surfacing bitumen on a built-up roof because of the limited tolerance of asphalt to thermal expansion or contraction, producing a pattern of cracks that resemble an alligator's hide.
 
Attic: The open area above the ceiling and under the roof deck of a steep-sloped roof.
 
Back surfacing: Fine mineral matter applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from sticking.
 
Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof covering.
 
Battens: 1"x2"x4' wood strips nailed to the roof, upon which the field tile hangs.
 
Bird stop: In addition to preventing birds from nesting in the hollows of the tile, this length of formed metal or foam elevates the first course of tile so that it is positioned at the same angle as subsequent courses.
 
Blisters: Bubbles that may appear on the surface of asphalt roofing after installation.
 
Built-up roof: An outer covering of a comparatively flat roof, consisting of several layers of saturated felt. As laid, each layer is mopped with hot tar or asphalt. The top layer is finished with a mineral or rock covering and a special coating.
 
Bundle: A package of shingles. There are 3, 4 or 5 bundles per square.
 
Butt edge: The lower edge of the shingle tabs.
 
Caulk: To fill a joint with mastic or asphalt cement to prevent leaks.
 
Chalk line: A line made on the roof by snapping a taut string or cord dusted with chalk. Used for alignment purposes.
 
Class "A": The highest fire-resistance rating for roofing as per ASTM E-108. Indicates roofing is able to withstand severe exposure to fire originating from sources outside the building.
 
Class "B": Fire-resistance rating that indicates roofing materials are able to withstand moderate exposure to fire originating from sources outside the building.
 
Class "C": Fire-resistance rating that indicates roofing materials are able to withstand light exposure to fire originating from sources outside the building.
 
Closed cut valley: A method of valley treatment in which shingles from one side of the valley extend across the valley while shingles from the other side are trimmed two inches from the valley centerline. The valley flashing is not exposed.
 
Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the base material into which granules or other surfacing is embedded.
 
Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening. The collar is also called a vent sleeve.
 
Color-through: During manufacturing, the color is mixed throughout the roofing material to become an integral part of it. When the product is cut, the affected area shows the same color as the surface.
 
Concealed nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are driven into the underlying course of roofing and covered by a cemented, overlapping course. Nails are not exposed to the weather.
 
Condensation: The change of water from vapor to liquid when warm, moisture-laden air comes in contact with a cold surface.
 
Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.
 
Course: A row of shingles or roll roofing running the length of the roof.
 
Coverage: Amount of weather protection provided by the roofing material. Depends on number of layers of material between the exposed surface of the roofing and the deck; i.e., single coverage, double coverage, etc.
 
Cricket: A peaked saddle construction at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water around the chimney.
 
Cutout: The open portions of a strip shingle between the tabs.
 
Deck or Decking: The structural "skin" of a roof over which roofing in applied. Most new homes have decking made of plywood.
 
Dormer: A framed window unit that projects through the sloping plane of a roof.
 
Double coverage: Application of asphalt roofing such that the lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.
 
Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters. Also called a leader.
 
Drip edge: A non-corrosive, non-staining material used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off to drip clear of underlying construction.
 
Dutch lap method: Application of giant individual shingles with the long dimension parallel to the eaves. Shingles are applied to overlap adjacent shingles in each course as well as the course below.
 
E-J
 
Eaves: The horizontal, lower edge of a sloped roof.
 
Eaves flashing: Additional layer of roofing material applied at the eaves to help prevent damage from water back-up.
 
Edging strips: Boards nailed along eaves and rakes after cutting back existing wood shingles to provide secure edges for re-roofing with asphalt shingles.
 
Edge venting: The installation of a vent material along the roof edge (e.g., Starter Vent) as part of a ventilation system. Edge vent material should be used in conjunction with other venting material (e.g., ridge vent) as it not intended for use by itself.
 
Exposed nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are driven into the cemented, overlapping course of roofing. Nails are exposed to the weather.
 
Exposure: Portion of the shingle exposed to the weather. Exposure is measured from the butt of one shingle to the butt of the next.
 
Fascia: Horizontal trim at the eaves that covers the rafter ends.
 
Feathering strips: Tapered wood filler strips placed along the butts of old wood shingles to create a level surface when re-roofing over existing wood shingle roofs. Also called horse feathers.
 
Felt: A flexible sheet that is saturated with asphalt and used as an underlayment, sometimes called "tar paper"
 
Fiber-cement: A roofing material that has cellulose (wood fiber) mixed into it. Cellulose absorbs water and can add greatly to the roof's weight, while reducing its longevity.
 
Fiberglass mat: An asphalt roofing base material manufactured from glass fibers.
 
Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to prevent seepage of water into a building around any intersection or projection in a roof such as vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys. Galvanized metal flashing should be minimum 26-gauge.
 
Flashing cement: An asphalt-based cement used to bond roofing materials. Also known as mastic.
 
Free-tab shingles: Shingles that do not contain factory-applied strips or spots of self-sealing adhesive.
 
Gable: The upper portion of a sidewall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.
 
Gable roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each side of the ridge. Contains a gable at each end.
 
Gambrel roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each side of the ridge. The lower plane has a steeper slope than the upper. Contains a gable at each end.
 
Granules: Ceramic-coated colored crushed rock that is applied to the exposed surface of asphalt roofing products.
 
Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts.
 
HEX shingles: Shingles that have the appearance of a hexagon after installation.
 
Hip: The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.
 
Hip roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each of four sides. Contains no gables.
 
Hip shingles: Shingles used to cover the inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
 
Ice dam: Ice dams occur when snow melts near the ridgelines of warm roofs (roofs without adequate ventilation). As the water runs down the roof to the overhang, it cools and freezes. If the snow continues this melt and freeze process, an ice dam can form that can seep under the shingles, through the decking and into the house. This, of course, can cause serious roof leaks--even in freezing temperatures.
 
The best prevention to ice dams is a well-ventilated (cool) roof. Additional protection for your roof can be applied with an impermeable ice and water membrane. The membrane is installed on top of the decking, under the roofing material.
 
Temporary prevention of ice dams can also be done through the use of electric cables along the eaves of the roof (where the dams usually form). However, new ice dams can form above the cables and still cause extensive damage. Another emergency solution to ice dams is to fill a sock or nylon with calcium chloride. Lay the stocking vertically across the ice dam. The calcium chloride will melt the ice and release the water so that it can drain outside, and not inside your roof.
 
Intake Ventilation: The part of a ventilation system used to draw fresh air in. Usually vents installed in the soffit or along the eaves of a building.
 
Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.
 
Joists: Any of the small timbers or metal beams ranged parallel from wall to wall in a structure to support a floor or ceiling.
 
K-P
 
Laminated shingles: Strip shingles containing more than one layer of tabs to create extra thickness. Also called three-dimensional shingles.
 
Lap: To cover the surface of one shingle or roll with another.
 
Lap cement: An asphalt-based cement used to adhere overlapping plies of roll roofing.
 
Lean-to roof: A roof with one slope only that is built against a higher wall.
 
Life-cycle cost: The total lifetime cost of a roof. Calculated by adding maintenance costs to the installed price, then deducting the added value the roof provides when the home is resold.
 
Low slope application: Method of installing asphalt shingles on roof slopes between two and four inches per foot.
 
Mansard roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each of four sides. The lower plane has a much steeper pitch than the upper, often approaching vertical. Contains no gables.
 
Mastic: An asphalt-based cement used to bond roofing materials. Also known as flashing cement.
 
Metal drip edge: A narrow strip of non-corrodible metal used at the rake and eave to facilitate water runoff.
 
Mineral-surfaced roofing: Asphalt shingles and roll roofing that are covered with granules.
 
Nesting: A method of re-roofing with new asphalt shingles over old shingles in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.
 
New construction: Installing a roof system on new construction.
 
No-cutout shingles: Shingles consisting of a single, solid tab with no cutouts.
 
Non-prorated warranty: A warranty which provides full replacement costs for the item(s) covered during the full term of the warranty. In contrast, a prorated warranty merely reimburses a percentage of replacement costs, depending on the age of the roof.
 
Non-veneer panel: Any wood based panel that does not contain veneer and carries an APA span rating, such as wafer board or oriented strand board.
 
Normal slope application: Method of installing asphalt shingles on roof slopes between 4 inches and 21 inches per foot.
 
Open valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles on both sides of the valley are trimmed along a chalk line snapped on each side of the valley. Shingles do not extend across the valley. Valley flashing is exposed.
 
Organic felt: An asphalt roofing base material manufactured from cellulose fibers.
 
Organic shingle: An asphalt shingle reinforced with organic material manufactured from cellulose fibers.
 
Overhang: That portion of the roof structure that extends beyond the exterior walls of a building.
 
Pallets: Wooden platforms used for storing and shipping bundles of shingles.
 
Parapet: A low protective wall that extends above the roofline or balcony for support.
 
Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.
 
Plastic cement: A compound used to seal flashings and in some cases to seal down shingles as well as for other small waterproofing jobs. Where plastic cement is required for sealing down shingles, use a dab about the size of a half dollar unless otherwise specified.
 
Ply: The number of layers of roofing: i.e. one-ply, two-ply.
 
Q-S
 
Racking: Roofing application method in which shingle courses are applied vertically up the roof rather than across and up. Not a recommended procedure.
 
Rafter: The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the wall plate.
 
Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge.
 
Random-tab shingles: Shingles on which tabs vary in size and exposure.
 
Release tape: A plastic or paper strip that is applied to the back of self-sealing shingles. This strip prevents the shingles from sticking together in the bundles, and need not be removed for application.
 
Re-cover (overlay): The installation of a new roof system over an existing system without removing an existing system.
 
Re-roofing: Installing a new roof system on a building that is not new.
 
Ridge: The uppermost, horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
 
Ridge shingles: Shingles used to cover the horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
 
Rise: The vertical distance from the eaves line to the ridge.
 
Roll roofing: Asphalt roofing products manufactured in roll form.
 
Roofing tape: An asphalt-saturated tape used with asphalt cements for flashing and patching asphalt roofing.
 
Run: The horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge. One half the span.
 
Saturant: Asphalt used to impregnate an organic felt base material.
 
Self-sealing shingles: Shingles containing factory-applied strips or spots a thermal sealing tab cement to firmly cement the shingles together automatically after they have been applied properly and exposed to warm sun temperatures. In warm seasons, the seal will be complete in a matter of days. In colder seasons, sealing time depends on the temperature and amount of direct sunlight hitting the shingles. Hand sealing with plastic cement should be done to ensure sealing in winter.
 
Self-sealing strip or spot: Factory-applied adhesive that bonds shingle courses together when exposed to the heat of the sun after application. Also known as self-sealing cement.
 
Selvage: That portion of roll roofing overlapped by the succeeding course to obtain double coverage.
 
Shading: Slight differences in shingle color that may occur as a result of normal manufacturing operations.
 
Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.
 
Shed roof: A roof containing only one sloping plane. Has no hips, ridges, valleys or gables.
 
Single coverage: Asphalt roofing that provides one layer of roofing material over the deck.
 
Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.
 
Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).
 
Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves.
 
Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.
 
Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.
 
Specialty eaves flashing membrane: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind-driven rain.
 
Square: A unit of roof measure covering 100 square feet.
 
Square-tab shingles: Shingles on which tabs are all the same size and exposure.
 
Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.
 
Steep slope application: Method of installing asphalt shingles on roof slopes greater than 21 inches per foot.
 
Step flashing: Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane.
 
Strip shingles: Asphalt shingles that are approximately three times as long as they are wide.
 
T-Z
 
Tab: The exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cutouts.
 
Tar paper: See "Felt"
 
Tear off: Removing an existing roof system.
 
Telegraphing: A shingle distortion that may arise when a new roof is applied over an uneven surface.
 
Three-dimensional shingles: See laminated shingles.
 
Three-tab shingle: The most popular type of asphalt shingle usually 12" x 36" in size with three tabs.
 
Top lap: That portion of the roofing covered by the succeeding course after installation.
 
UL: Underwriters Laboratories, Inc.
 
UL label: Label displayed on packaging to indicate the level of fire and/or wind resistance of asphalt roofing.
 
Underlayment: A layer of asphalt saturated (sometimes referred to as tar paper) which is laid down on a bare deck before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.
 
Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes to provide water runoff.
 
Vent: Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck such as a pipe or stack. Any device installed on the roof, gable or soffit for the purpose of ventilating the underside of the roof deck.
 
Vent sleeve: See collar.
 
Woven Valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles from both sides of the valley extend across the valley and are woven together by overlapping alternate courses as they are applied. The valley flashing is not exposed.

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